Active Ingredients for Skin

Active ingredients are raw materials that give a cosmetic its main care function, such as brightening dark spots, smoothing wrinkles, moisturising or strengthening the skin barrier. Unlike emollients and emulsifiers, they are what substantiates the product’s claims. For a formulator, the key points are documented performance, recommended use level, stability in the formula, compliance with Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 and data that support the product safety assessment.

The choice depends on mechanism, stability and regulatory limits. Niacinamide and tranexamic acid are stable and easy to add to the water phase, alpha-arbutin and resorcinol derivatives act on melanin synthesis, and stable vitamin C derivatives such as ascorbyl glucoside, ethyl ascorbic acid and VC-IP combine brightening with antioxidant protection. Some substances, including alpha-arbutin and kojic acid, have concentration limits in the EU, so check the current Annex III before fixing the formula.

The most common alternatives are newer-generation retinoids such as HPR (hydroxypinacolone retinoate) and plant-derived bakuchiol, also available in an SLN lipid carrier. They are chosen for sensitive-skin formulas or when a brand wants to reduce the risk of irritation. Retinol and its esters are subject to EU concentration limits introduced by Regulation (EU) 2024/996, which should be factored in when planning face and body products.

Ferment filtrates are filtrates or lysates obtained by fermentation with microorganisms such as Lactobacillus, Bifida, Saccharomyces or Galactomyces. They contain metabolites, peptides and polysaccharides that support hydration, the skin barrier and a balanced skin microbiome. They are often called postbiotics because they contain no live cultures. They are easy to add to the water phase and fit well into soothing and anti-ageing formulas.

Very low-molecular-weight collagen, such as a hydrolysate of around 300 Da, is better placed to enter the epidermis than native collagen, whose large molecules stay on the skin surface. In a cosmetic, it works mainly as a moisturising and smoothing ingredient. Claims about penetration or anti-wrinkle effects should be based on testing of the finished product. High-molecular-weight collagen, by contrast, performs better as a film-forming ingredient.

Only UV filters listed in Annex VI of Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 may be used in EU cosmetics, within the maximum concentrations and conditions stated there. The range includes broad-spectrum filters such as BEMT, DHHB, EHT, MBBT, TDSA and polysilicone-15. Performance depends on the filter combination and the base, so the SPF and UVA protection of the finished product must always be confirmed by testing with recognised methods.

ViaKosmo supplies a document package with every batch: a technical data sheet (TDS) with specifications and use recommendations, a safety data sheet (SDS) and a certificate of analysis (CoA) for that batch. These support the product safety report and incoming quality control. If you need additional manufacturer statements, for example on origin or impurities, list them in your enquiry to sales@viakosmo.pl so they can be requested together with the quote.

Delivery systems such as liposomes, solid lipid nanoparticles (SLN) and nanoemulsions encapsulate an active in a carrier that improves its stability, spreadability and contact with the skin. They make it possible to add lipophilic actives like bakuchiol or squalane to water-based formulas and to reduce irritation. If a grade meets the nanomaterial definition of Regulation 1223/2009, the product needs [nano] labelling and prior notification, which the manufacturer’s documentation helps to establish.