Pigments, Dyes

The difference is solubility: a pigment is insoluble in the medium and colours by dispersion of particles, a dye dissolves in water or oil and colours the whole phase, and a lake is a dye fixed on an inorganic substrate, such as an aluminium or calcium salt, which makes it insoluble. In practice, pigments and lakes are used in colour cosmetics where coverage matters, while dyes colour transparent products such as gels, shampoos and toners.

A CI (Colour Index) number is a five-digit identifier of a colourant used to declare it in the EU INCI list, for example CI 77891 for titanium dioxide and CI 77491, 77492 and 77499 for red, yellow and black iron oxides. One CI number covers the substance regardless of manufacturer or trade form. For formulators, it is the starting point for checking whether a colourant is listed in Annex IV and under which conditions it may be used.

Iron oxides are inorganic pigments with CI numbers 77491 (red), 77492 (yellow) and 77499 (black), and they form the basis of skin tones in foundations, concealers, powders and eyeshadows. Cosmetics use synthetic iron oxides with controlled purity, because natural ores contain heavy-metal impurities. They are highly stable to light and heat. The KOELIN range includes single iron oxides, fine-particle grades and ready-made blends.

Choose the dye by the phase you need to colour: water-soluble dyes (such as the KOELOW series) for shampoos, shower gels, liquid soaps and toners, and oil-soluble dyes (the KOELOS series) for oils, balms, lipsticks and anhydrous products. In emulsions, the external phase is usually coloured for an even result. Before choosing, check shade stability at the formula’s pH and under light in the final packaging.

Only colourants listed in Annex IV of Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 may be used in EU cosmetics. Each entry defines the field of application: all cosmetics, not near the eyes, not on mucous membranes or rinse-off products only, and some have purity criteria. Hair dyes are regulated separately under Annex III. US designations such as D&C or FD&C do not determine EU status; what counts is the CI number and its Annex IV entry.

Titanium dioxide (CI 77891) is a white pigment that lightens shades and adds coverage in foundations, concealers, powders and eyeshadows. In the EU, powder forms that may be inhaled, such as loose face powders and aerosols, are subject to additional conditions in Annex III. Titanium dioxide used as a UV filter, especially in nano form, falls under Annex VI. The grade therefore depends on its function in the formula and the product format.

Ready-made pigment blends such as KOELRON are pre-matched shades of iron oxides, titanium dioxide and other pigments, ready to add to foundations, concealers or powders. They shorten colour matching, reduce the number of raw materials in stock and improve shade consistency between batches. They pay off especially for product lines in many shades. For unusual colours, working with single pigments and matching the formula in-house is still the better option.

Yes. Koel Colours pigments and dyes can be tested on lab samples, so you can check shade, coverage and dispersion in your own base. Send a sample request through the form on this page, to sales@viakosmo.pl or by phone at +48 88 66 78 955, listing CI numbers or grade names and the product type. Deliveries come with a technical data sheet, safety data sheet and batch certificate of analysis.